North Central Insulation

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How much Insulation Do I need?

A: This Depends largely upon where you live. The Federal Government has recommended insulation levels according to geographical zone.

Ohio falls within zone 2. The recommended level of attic insulation is an R-49. Depending on the fiberglass used, this requires 17”-19" of insulation. If cellulose insulation is used, 13+" is required to meet the standard. If you would like further information please contact our experts at North Central Insulation.

Q: What does "R-Value" stand for?

A: R-value is simply the resistance to heat flow of any given material. When evaluating the efficiency of insulation, it is important to look at the materials R-value level. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power, and the greater your potential energy savings.

Q: How long will it take to recoup my investment in energy savings?

A: If you install insulation to the optimum level, it usually takes 3-5 years for the insulation to pay for itself in energy savings. The optimum level of insulation is the amount of insulation which will give you optimum return on your investment. For example, an R-49 level of insulation is considered the optimum level of insulation for the geographical zone Ohio falls in.

Q: In New Construction, what role does a vapor barrier play in the insulating process?

A: In every household, occupants generate moisture that is carried through the air as water vapor. If this water is not able to escape to the outside of the home, it can condense and collect in the attic and side walls, soaking in to the insulation and decreasing its effectiveness. Water vapor can also eventually soak into the internal structure of the home and create musty smells, mold growth, paint peeling structure rotting, stained ceilings, crumpled plaster, and wood rot.

As new homes are designed to be very tight with improved doors, windows, and high efficiency furnaces.

Vapor barriers are any material that limits or restricts the transmission of water vapor from from the warm areas inside your home to the cold surfaces inside attics and walls where it can collect and cause damage.

Vapor barriers should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side of your new construction home. If you put them on the wrong side, you may compound moisture problems instead of preventing them.

Q: How does ventilation help in the insulating process?

A: If you are considering adding insulation to your older, existing home, it is important that the attic should be properly vented. In attics this can be accomplished by providing adequate ventilation. There are two ways to do this. One way is through a natural or static ventilation system. The other way is by a power or mechanical ventilation system. The most common ventilation method, however, is the natural or static ventilation system, which consists of simple vent openings in your attic. Your attic probably has two or more vent openings located so that air can flow in one and out the other.

These can be soffit, eave or ridge vents or a combination of the three. They are simple openings covered by grillwork to keep rain and snow out of your attic.

In the illustration above, cooler, dryer outside air enters through soffit or eave vents near the attic floor, forcing existing moisture-laden air through vents m the gables, roof or ridge. Regardless of the types of vents you have, as a basic guide you should provide 1 square foot inlet and 1 square foot outlet for each 150 square feet of ceiling area when there is no vapor barrier in the ceiling. If the ceiling does have a vapor barrier provide 1 square foot inlet and 1 square foot outlet for each 300 square feet of ceiling area. Ideally, at least 50 percent of the required ventilating area should be provided by vents located in the upper portion of your attic and the balance of ventilation provided by eave vents. It is important if you’re planning to add insulation to your attic not to cover eave vent openings and to maintain at least a 1-inch space between insulation and roof sheathing so that air from the eave vents can enter the attic space

Remember, by properly insulating and ventilating your home, you’ll enable excessive moisture to escape before it condenses in your attic and walls causing damage. In winter you’ll also run less risk of ice dams which are caused when heat escapes arid allow snow to melt down your roof arid freeze on the colder overhang areas of the roof. In the summer super-heated air will also be able to escape to the outside, helping to keep your attic cooler and reduce your air conditioning costs.

Q: Can NCI insulate my older home without leaving plugs in the walls?

A: More than likely. The insulation professionals at NCI can remove rows of your wood, aluminum and vinyl siding, install the insulation, and reinstall the siding. Once completed, neither you nor anyone else will be able to tell that we have been there, unless they see your lower heating and cooling bills.

Q: I want to save money and install insulation in my new construction home by myself. Should I still get an estimate from you?

A: Most certainly. A majority of the time we are able to come in and insulate your new construction home for virtually the same price you would buy the insulation at a lumber yard. This saves you time and money, and you can have peace of mind in knowing that your home has been professionally insulated by the experts at NCI.